Headin' Up Country: 8/20-8/21 We did PEI

8/20/15

A mad dash to Pictou to catch the Prince Edward Island Ferry within minutes of its departure, started our day. Engulfed by numerous bus tourists, Jules and I sat on the deck outside and tried to find shade from this continuing heat wave. The ferry was so packed that I wondered where all the people would fit on the island.

Riding off, we headed straight for " Information" to check for motels. Our original plan to ride the west corner of the island was ditched because of a week-long airshow in Summerside that had all the rooms booked, so we headed to East Point. How fortunate for us, because our new route took us through agricultural PEI. Potatoes are big business and we rode past miles of perfectly groomed fields, many in blossom, that were farmed right up to the edge of the sea. The deep red dirt of PEI contrasted with the healthy green plants. Mussels are not the only economy here.

And we also saw mussels. Seeded beds of "mussel socks" lined the highway in low tidal areas. Identified by rows of small white buoys, the beds stretched out into the gulf.

Riding was relatively carefree here. No moose or deer reside on this island and the only road hazards were potholes and other drivers. Singing Sands was our end game for the day as we closed out with the required bowl of mussels. After all, that's why we came.

8/21/15

Fog paved the way for our early morning ride to the East Point. The many working lighthouses we have seen on this trip define the dangers to boats and sailors along the coast. It has been estimated that between fifteen and twenty thousand ships have crashed along the shores of Eastern Canada. Without the ever present signal lights, one can only imagine the losses.

Having reached the furthest point east, we had no choice but to head north and then west around the top of the island. Another day of excitement for Jules unfolded as huge equipment accomplished some serious farming. With no irrigation, potatoes, grain and other crops flourished in weedless fields. We saw first hand how PEI lives up to its nicknames, The Garden Province, The Million Acre Farm and Spud Island. Because of its location between the strait and the gulf, the growing season is longer and milder than most of the Maritimes.

Heading toward Charlottetown, the traffic and the sky became heavy. Storms had been forecast for the evening and we were hoping to beat them off the island. Outside of Summerside, we stopped for our picnic and were thrilled with a free view of the airshow! Fighter jets flew over our heads in perfect formation, roaring straight to the clouds, then silently falling off in stalls and as we sat alone under our shady tree, we felt like they were putting on the show, just for us. But the sky was loading up with dark clouds as well as entertainment, so we stood up the bike and headed west.

The eight mile Confederation bridge was built in 1997 to connect PEI to the mainland and we hoped to cross it today. But, at our first view, three distinct, angry storms touched down across the span. While debating wether to cross or wait out the storms, a motel with vacancy miraculously appeared. Done deal!

Tomorrow we will cross to New Brunswick and wind our way through the moose to head back to the US. Canada has been a great friend to us in our travels. We will miss the amazing exchange rate for the US dollar that has gone from 20 to 30% while we were here, but far above that, we will miss the scenery and the residents.

Newfoundland tops the list in happy and kind people. Always willing to have a chat (although many times we couldn't wade through the accents), the Newfies enhanced our visit with the love of their rock. In Nova Scotia and PEI we also felt very welcome, but in populated areas, the pace was faster. Always helpful and always smiling, the folks of the Maritimes added so much to our experience here. Add the stunning rides along rocky coasts up into tightly knit forests and our Canadian adventure becomes priceless.