After dressing in layers for the cold we had felt the night before, we walked out to the bike in 70 degrees with brilliant sunlight sparking off the harbor. Jackets and Under Armour off, we headed out toward the mountains.
Route 1, the Trans Canadian Highway in Newfoundland, erased any prejudices we had against major roads. This section twists beautifully along the coast and then up through emerald green mountains. As Celtic music played, we were transported to Ireland and all the mysticism associated with the island. At Corner Brook we stopped for lunch and sat in the sun by the Bay of Islands and watched the boats. This is excitingly warm weather for the Newfies. Exhilarated to be outside, they proudly display their sunburnt faces, so unused to this element of nature.
Where the ocean isn't stunning you with its beauty, glacial lakes continue to share the ancient history of the Island. Home to only 14 native species, there are no snakes, raccoons, skunks or porcupines, but there are moose, caribou and and occasional polar bear that floats in, stranded on an ice floe. The raw geology and biosphere entranced us.
After cruising along Deer Lake for about 20 miles we reached the town of the same name. Here we turned off the highway and began to sail up the Viking Trail, an area rife with artifacts from early explorers. Rascal, our very own dragon, felt a kinship to the ancient travelers on this route with their ships bedecked with dragon heads. She flew past the inlets and fjords and we watched in awe as the scenery evolved. Cliff edged lakes repeatedly astounded us as we soared up through Gros Morne National Park, feeling like the first to discover the continent.
Rascal folded her wings at the small village of Cow Head, on the Gulf of St.Lawrence, our nest for the night. A soothing hot tub, a room with a view and a romantic dinner of cod au gratin (a specialty here) ended our adventure for the day. Reports of another Nor'easter blowing in had us recalculating tomorrow's route. But wherever we ride, whatever the conditions, we are still adventurers on this mighty rock, and we will put our faces to the wind and sail on!
Fog horns soothed me to sleep and the ghosts of mighty bearded Vikings sailed through my dreams.
Lovely Port aux Basques on a lovely day
Haven't seen any yet even though NL claims to have the most moose per square mile in the world!
Jules' favorite mountains
Granite cliffs
Dockside lunch
It snows on the tracks, too!
The Ice Age created this spot, just for us!
Gros Morne fjord
As the highway carves into the mountains
Riding the gulf of St. Lawrence
Cow Head
The view from our room for the night
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