Headin' Up Country: 8/14/15 Hunkered Down

Sometimes you think you'll sit by the sidelines, but then you get called to play and you win the day.

St. John's was getting soaked, Rascal was getting a tire and this morning gave us a chance to catch our breath. Relaxing at the hotel, we watched rain splash in the parking lot. Having booked our room for another night, we were in no rush to get the bike back and run wet. If we had to, we'd sit it out all day.

Shortly after noon, the tire was on and we were picked up to retrieve the bike. The rain continued as we signed the paper work, but we refused to give up. Rain suits on, we tackled St. John's. Rascal sluiced through puddles and potholes down drastic, angular roads, lined with houses rioting in color. Every house, building, business is freshly painted in every shade of primary colors imaginable. They must go through thousands of gallons of paint every year.

One of the most difficult riding challenges of the trip, Jules navigated wet streets falling at 60 degree angles, covered with potholes and construction, with very little traffic control. He was glad to have new rubber on the bike. We wiggled around this stacked up city, to arrive at the wharf, where huge ships loaded with containers gave us the answer as to how the island is supplied.

We rode through George Street, which boasts the most bars per capita of any street in North America, then onto Water Street, the oldest commercial street in continental history. A sushi lunch in one of the many ethnic restaurants gave us a big dose of people watching, as tourists streamed by in the increasingly dry weather.

Settlement by the English began here in the early 16th century, almost 100 years before the Pilgrims landed on Pymouth Rock and history is written all over this seaport. Newfoundland was the last English colony in Canada and was finally given its independence in 1948. Because of its strategic position in the North Atlantic, the US established many military bases during WWII. When it came to NL deciding on nationality, the US was extremely interested, but Canada won out and gained another province.

Signal Hill clarified the strategic importance of St. John's and Newfoundland to us. Since the early 1700's fortifications have stood on this hill guarding the narrow mouth of the harbor. Cabot Tower, which stands there now, was built in 1898 and has served as a signal and watch tower during two world wars and a cold one. Also, adding to its history, Marconi's first transatlantic message was received here. On the day of our visit, another historical moment for a few took place as a couple was married at the base of the tower in the wind and the mist.

The view from here is breathtaking. The jumbled hill of St. John's splays out in one direction guarded by an inlet so narrow, one wonders how the huge ships can navigate it. Rugged ocean pounds the rocks far below and off in the distance, the lighthouse on Cape Spear flashes a warning to sea captains seeking safe haven from the stormy Atlantic.

Mesmerized by Cape Spear, we were drawn to the light like moths to a flame. Through a wooded road we travelled up over the cliffs and then down to the ocean where we dismounted. Today was our chance to reach another milestone in our travels as we hiked to the Most Easterly Point. We have now travelled as far as we can on this continent in three directions: Key West to the south, Cape Flattery and now Cape Spear. All that is left is the North Pole. Maybe we can get some seasonal work with Santa.

Hunkering in our hotel room this morning, we were resigned to a day off the road, but by late afternoon, the sun broke through on the Cape and we had immersed ourselves in everything we could in and about St. John's. Facing the rain, we had stared it down, and opened up another indelible installment of our riding history.